Today I rode the train to Parma, 2 hours NW of Firenze. Parma is a major gastronomic city within the major gastronomic region of Emilia Romagna, and I was able to enjoy some truly great, tissue-thin Prosciutto, Parmigiano cheese, and Risotto with truffles and osso buco. There are men in the restaurants whose only task is to slice the famous and fabulous ham on elaborate silver slicers.
Eating was the main event, since I spent most of my time in Parma mid-day, when everything, and I mean everything, was closed except for restaurants, caffés, and tabbacherie. I've never seen a town as large as Parma shut down so thoroughly on a Saturday.
While walking back to the station for the ride back to Firenze, everything was reopening for the evening, and I did get in to see the gorgeous Parmigianino frescoes in Santa Maria della Stecatta.
Arriving back in Firenze on a Saturday night, young people especially pouring off the trains from the hinterlands for a big night in the city, I could really understand once again the appeal of urban excitement. It's an energy I've gotta have.